A rare collection of Chinese cheongsams tells a story of personal style and cultural connection in 20th-century America

Rare Chinese Cheongsam Collection Unveils 20th-Century American Cultural Connections

A rare collection of Chinese cheongsams – A rare Chinese cheongsam collection now on display at LACMA captures the essence of immigrant resilience and artistic evolution. The exhibition, titled “Fashioning Chinese Women: Empire to Modernity,” showcases garments that blend traditional Chinese aesthetics with the stylistic influences of mid-20th-century America. Susan Mah, a trailblazing first-generation Chinese American, redefined the cheongsam through bold choices in fabric and design, creating a unique bridge between her heritage and her new life in California.

A Legacy of Hybrid Style and Innovation

Susan’s cheongsams reflect a fearless approach to self-expression. Unlike the silk and embroidery of classical Chinese attire, she opted for vibrant, unconventional materials like lime-green fabric with Mayan-inspired motifs. This creative fusion symbolized her ability to adapt while honoring her roots, as she navigated cultural expectations and the shifting landscape of American fashion. Her daughter-in-law, Chere Lai Mah, highlights how these garments became extensions of her identity, drawing inspiration from Hollywood icons like Irene Dunne and Barbara Stanwyck.

Preserving History Through Textile Art

The LACMA collection includes over 70 pieces, many from Susan’s personal wardrobe and a few from her mother, Li Zhang Huifang. These items offer a rare glimpse into the lives of Chinese women during a transformative era. Guest curator Michaela Hansen emphasizes the significance of the collection, noting its unique blend of historical context and personal narrative. The cheongsams, she explains, are more than clothing—they are artifacts of cultural exchange and the quiet power of women to redefine tradition.

A Journey from Guangdong to Fresno

Susan’s story began in poverty-stricken Guangdong, where she was born into a family that would later thrive through hard work. By her mid-30s, she had built a successful record business, enabling her to bring her cheongsam collection to the U.S. during the Japanese invasion of 1938. The garments, preserved in the Bay Area’s climate, now tell a story of survival and adaptation. Lai Mah recalls how Susan’s ability to preserve her cultural artifacts, even as she embraced American life, underscores the theme of resilience woven throughout the collection.

Stories Woven in Stitches and Silk

Lai Mah, an artist deeply passionate about textiles, has spent years reconstructing Susan’s legacy through the garments. After Susan’s passing, she began piecing together the collection’s narrative using family anecdotes and the physical details of the clothing. One early gift—a turquoise cheongsam with gold accents—inspired a series of sculptures during Lai Mah’s time at UC Berkeley. These pieces highlight how Susan’s fashion choices transcended personal style, becoming a source of inspiration for future generations.

Redefining Fashion in a New World

What makes this collection exceptional is its focus on everyday immigrant experiences rather than royal or modern fashion. Hansen notes that the exhibition challenges the notion of Chinese attire as static, showcasing how Susan’s cheongsams evolved to reflect her life’s journey. From the clowns and polka dots of her youth to the confident, modern designs later in life, the garments document a dynamic interplay between tradition and innovation. This narrative is particularly relevant in today’s globalized world, where cultural identity often intersects with new influences.

A Final Gift That Lives On

One of the most poignant aspects of the collection is Susan’s habit of gifting her cheongsams to family. Her fur coat, for example, was repurposed into a lap blanket by one daughter-in-law, a gesture that resonates with the exhibition’s theme of legacy. Lai Mah describes this act as a testament to Susan’s belief in sharing her heritage. The collection, now part of LACMA’s permanent display, ensures that these stories of adaptation and creativity are not lost to time, preserving a vital chapter in American cultural history.