Look of the week: Saint Laurent’s see-through shoes reveal fashion’s growing foot fetish

Look of the Week: Saint Laurent’s Transparent Revival Sparks Debate

Look of the week – This season, fashion’s gaze has turned to the feet, a trend that has captured the attention of designers in a way that seems almost singular. At the men’s Summer 2027 Saint Laurent show in Paris, creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled a collection that defied convention, with one standout moment being a pair of clear vinyl oxfords that exposed the models’ toes to the scorching heat. The Parisian heatwave, which set records for June temperatures, turned the runway into a stage for unexpected drama as the models’ feet perspired visibly inside the see-through footwear. The collection opened with a slate blue suit—fluid trousers paired with a boxy, 80s-inspired jacket—that evoked the spirit of Bret Easton Ellis’s antiheroes, only to conclude with a twist: a series of shoes that left no room for mystery.

Vaccarello’s design choice was far from subtle. The translucent oxfords, while elegant, carried an air of audacity that challenged traditional notions of modesty. As the models stepped onto the catwalk, their feet became the focal point, blending elegance with a cheeky sense of provocation. This bold move wasn’t isolated; it followed a string of viral moments in fashion that have increasingly centered on the feet. Earlier this year, Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy sparked conversations with his resort collection, which featured sandals laced around the heel and exposing the toes. The whimsical yet extravagant designs raised questions about whether luxury was being pushed to its limits or if the feet had simply become the new canvas for self-expression.

The foot fetish isn’t a recent phenomenon. For years, designers have experimented with footwear that blurs the line between function and fantasy. Jonathan Anderson, now at Dior after his tenure at Loewe, has consistently embraced unconventional approaches, from balloon-filled pumps to soap-shaped heels. His work, often described as a blend of elegance and perversity, has turned footwear into a medium for storytelling. Similarly, The Row’s minimalist aesthetic is undercut by peculiar shoes like jelly-style flats and mesh designs, which sell out despite the brand’s reputation for high-priced, tailored pieces. These choices suggest that the feet, once relegated to the background, are now a key element in the fashion narrative.

A Trend Beyond the Runway

The Saint Laurent oxfords are part of a broader movement that has redefined how we perceive fashion. While handbags have lost some of their allure, and the ultra-exclusive Birkin bag is now seen as overexposed, footwear continues to hold its ground as a symbol of individuality. Tory Burch, known for her Palm Beach-inspired collections, has consistently introduced bold shoes that cater to young, stylish consumers. Her latest offering—a high-vamp pump splashed with neon orange—hints at a shift toward audacity, even in more conservative designs.

But the Saint Laurent shoes are particularly striking. Unlike the more subtle nods to foot-focused fashion, these oxfords are unapologetic in their transparency. The material, vinyl, is notoriously unbreathable, and in the stifling heat of Paris, it created a surreal atmosphere as the models’ feet glistened under the lights. The design’s success lies in its ability to provoke, whether through the sheer audacity of its visibility or the way it plays with the idea of intimacy in fashion. As Amy Odell, a fashion and culture journalist, noted this month, “Fashion has increasingly leaned into the intimate, and the feet are no longer just a part of the outfit—they’re the outfit.”

The Foot Fetish in Fashion History

While the current trend may feel fresh, its roots stretch back decades. The Margiela Tabi boot, which incorporated a Japanese split-toe design into a paint-streaked silhouette, is often credited as the first shock trotter in modern fashion. Its avant-garde approach prefigured the current fascination with feet, proving that the line between the sensual and the surreal has long been blurred. Now, with social media amplifying every detail, the feet have become a battleground for innovation and controversy.

Even the fashion industry’s most iconic moments have touched on this obsession. The Row’s unique shoe designs, for instance, have gained traction among consumers who might otherwise overlook the brand’s pricier offerings. Similarly, the Saint Laurent oxfords, though not the first to feature transparency, have reignited discussions about how footwear can shape a brand’s identity. The shoes’ success isn’t just about their appearance—it’s about the conversations they spark, whether about comfort, aesthetics, or the growing role of the feet in fashion’s narrative.

As the spotlight shifts from celebrity front rows to the designs themselves, the foot becomes a central motif. The industry has long used A-listers to glamorize runway shows, but now, the focus is on the footwear that has become as iconic as the models wearing it. Charli XCX’s act of lighting Madonna’s cigarette before Vaccarello’s show, though a moment of drama, pales in comparison to the lasting impact of the see-through shoes. These designs, much like the viral moments they follow, are less about the moment and more about the conversation they start.

Designers are now more attuned to the idea that feet, like the rest of the body, deserve center stage. The Saint Laurent oxfords, with their blend of sophistication and shock value, embody this philosophy. Whether it’s the clear vinyl material, the way it contrasts with the tailored suits, or the sheer novelty of their presentation, the shoes have become a symbol of a new era in fashion. As we look ahead to Spring 2027, the industry’s fixation on feet shows no signs of waning. The message is clear: in a world where every detail is scrutinized, the feet are no longer just a part of the outfit—they’re the outfit.

“Fashion has increasingly leaned into the intimate, and the feet are no longer just a part of the outfit—they’re the outfit.” – Amy Odell, fashion and culture journalist

With the industry’s obsession with feet deepening, it’s clear that the focus on the lower half of the body is here to stay. From the Margiela Tabi to Saint Laurent’s transparent oxfords, the evolution of footwear reflects a broader cultural shift. As designers continue to experiment, the feet will remain a subject of fascination, provoking debates and inspiring new directions in fashion. The question isn’t whether the foot fetish is here to stay—it’s whether we’ll ever stop looking down.