He profits off raw milk that’s making people sick. The government isn’t stopping him.
A Dairying Contradiction
He profits off raw milk that – Mark McAfee, the founder of Raw Farm, has become a symbol of the raw milk movement’s defiance against conventional food safety standards. Despite a growing number of reported illnesses tied to his product, McAfee’s enterprise continues to generate substantial profits. The story, initially uncovered by ProPublica, reveals a surprising dynamic between the dairyman and the government, which appears to be overlooking the risks he and his business pose to consumers.
The Rise of Raw Milk
A few years ago, raw milk was a niche product, sold in small quantities by a handful of local farmers. Today, however, it’s a booming industry, with millions of Americans embracing it as a healthier alternative to pasteurized milk. McAfee’s operation, the largest raw-milk dairy in the United States, has become a key player in this shift, raking in around $30 million annually. This surge in popularity has been fueled by a mix of factors: the allure of natural, unprocessed food, skepticism toward government regulations, and a growing belief that mainstream health institutions are influenced by corporate interests.
A Visit to the Farm
On a foggy morning in February, a white Ford pickup truck cut through the Central Valley’s mist, driving down a path slick with mud. From the vehicle stepped a 64-year-old dairyman, his broad frame and sun-kissed skin suggesting decades of hard work on the land. He greeted me with a hearty embrace, insisting that he had “known me for a lifetime.” “I’m a hugger,” he said, before I could protest. “You must be Mark,” I replied, noting my hesitation to reciprocate. His enthusiasm for the product was as palpable as his grip, and I couldn’t help but wonder how such a passionate advocate could overlook the risks his milk carried.
The Science and Risk Debate
Raw milk, by definition, lacks pasteurization—the process of heating milk to eliminate harmful pathogens. Before this method became standard a century ago, it was common for thousands of infants to perish from diseases caused by contaminated dairy. Today, most scientists and health experts agree that raw milk offers no significant nutritional edge over pasteurized milk. In fact, it may even be more hazardous. Studies show that consumers of raw milk face over 100 times the risk of foodborne illness, with outbreaks of salmonella and E. coli remaining frequent. Yet, McAfee’s farm has managed to thrive, thanks in part to its ability to market the milk as a natural, beneficial choice. “It’s delicious,” he often claims. “It makes you feel good, triggering the gut-brain connection that boosts serotonin and dopamine.” This narrative, he insists, is central to his business’s appeal.
Despite the risks, the raw milk movement has gained traction, with over 10 million Americans now regular consumers. National sales have skyrocketed, increasing by 65% from 2023 to 2024 alone. This growth has been accompanied by a cultural shift, with raw milk being framed as a rebellion against industrialized food systems. For its proponents, it represents a return to simplicity and a rejection of what they see as bureaucratic overreach. But for critics, it’s a testament to how much the government has allowed risk to escalate in the name of consumer choice.
Politics and Advocacy
McAfee’s influence extends beyond the farm, thanks to the political backing of figures like Robert F. Kennedy Jr. The Biden administration had planned a regulatory crackdown on his operation when the former president took office, but the transition to Trump’s leadership changed the course of the battle. Kennedy, who ran for president the year before becoming Health and Human Services Secretary, had already positioned himself as a vocal advocate for raw milk. During his campaign, he criticized the government’s “aggressive suppression” of the product, arguing that it was being unfairly targeted by Big Food and Big Pharma. His tenure in the department saw the release of a federal report promoting raw milk, which he celebrated with a toast of raw-milk shooters at the White House. This endorsement has lent McAfee’s business a significant amount of political weight, shielding it from stricter oversight.
McAfee’s success is not just a matter of marketing. He has built a reputation as a pioneer, challenging the status quo with a blend of charisma and conviction. “I’m climbing a mountain they say you can’t climb,” he remarked, reflecting on his long-standing battles with the Food and Drug Administration and the Department of Justice. These agencies have repeatedly cited his operation for violations, linking it to more than a dozen recalls and outbreaks that left hundreds unwell. Yet, McAfee remains undeterred, insisting that his milk is safer than it appears and that his practices are the result of meticulous care.
McAfee’s Defense
When I met McAfee at his farm, nestled 20 miles southwest of Fresno, he was quick to defend his product. “They think we’re some kind of a fringe, weird trend,” he said, his tone confident. “But we’re dead serious here.” The farm, which he runs alongside his adult children, is a hub of activity, with daily checks on milk quality ensuring that bacteria levels are kept to a minimum. “We screen our milk thoroughly,” he explained, emphasizing that his team’s efforts make it safe for even the most vulnerable consumers. But critics argue that no amount of screening can fully eliminate the risk, especially in light of recent outbreaks and the discovery of bird flu in his herd.
McAfee’s narrative is clear: raw milk is not just a product, but a philosophy. It represents freedom from industrial processing, a return to traditional farming, and a trust in natural systems. Yet, as the number of illnesses linked to his milk grows, so does the question of whether this philosophy is worth the danger. With federal agencies seemingly hesitant to act, the debate over raw milk remains unresolved, leaving consumers to weigh the benefits against the risks. As McAfee continues to sell his vision, the balance of power between the dairyman and the government hangs in the air, much like the morning mist over his farm.
“I’ve put a couple kids in the hospital, and they have been sick, but they recovered,” McAfee acknowledged before my visit. “But here’s the thing: I’m a pioneer. And I’m going against the grain here.”
This statement, though acknowledging the risks, frames them as inevitable costs of progress. For McAfee, the fight for raw milk is not just about profit—it’s about proving that the government’s approach to food safety is outdated and overly cautious.
